Once you dive into oolong teas, a new world will open up to you. Of all the tea classes, oolong teas are the most diverse in style, aroma and flavor. Oolongs are considered the connoisseurs tea given their complexity, “completeness” and intricate manufacturing. The word “oolong” (or “wulong” in China) means “black dragon” for the twisting silhouette of a Chinese dragon that you can see in the traditional strip style Oolong teas.
Oolong teas are partially oxidised, sitting somewhere in the middle between green teas (the least oxidised of all the tea classes) and black teas (the most oxidised). They can fall anywhere in the range of 12-80% oxidation, and it’s this variety and their ability to balance the freshness associated with green tea and the robust flavor of a black tea that makes oolongs so popular.
When it comes to oolong tea production, you’ll find many of the processing steps used in other tea classes but with additional steps and twists added by the tea maker to capture the the essence of the particular tea bush variety being used. The result is a expressive tea that is both complex and smooth with a flavour suggestive of melons, honey, leather, orchids, spice and apricots.
For the best oolongs, look to China and Taiwan where you”ll be able to choose between 3 broad categories:
- Open leaf oolong teas: Great examples are the Baoxong oolong (lighly oxidised) and the Bai Hao Oriental Beauty (medium oxidised) oolongs from Taiwan. The color of the leaves can vary from deep green to a dark hazel brown. Bai Hao has a sought after stone fruit aroma and pairs well with food while Baoxong is fresh and creamy.
- Semiball-rolled oolongs - Great examples exist from both China and Taiwan. Traditional semiball-rolled oolongs have a medium oxidation and a mottled brown/amber color while modern semiball-rolled oolongs have a greener mottled color and a ligher oxidation to preserve the floral flavor. Well known examples include Tung Ting from Taiwan with its invigorating nutty, caramel aroma and the unforgettable Iron Goddess Of Mercy Oolong (Tie Quan Yin) from China.
- Strip-style oolongs – The dark, twisted individual leaves of Wu Yi Shan and Feng Huang Dan oolongs from China are easy to identify. They are normally medium to heavily oxidised and provide fruity, earthy flavours.
The precise steps of oolong tea manufacturer vary considerably between the different cultivation regions but they do have some things in common. For example, all oolong teas are withered, tossed, bruised and rested repeatedly. The tossing and bruising encourages oxidation and is unique to the oolong tea making process. The leaves are then “refined” in a process that can includes drying, shading, rolling, shading and a final roasting. The process is hugely complex, often lasting over several days with leaves being rolled and shaped multiple times. The goal is to deepen the flavour of the tea across the entire leaf and enhance its staying power – experienced over multiple steepings.
Purchasing tips for oolong tea
Knowing the country and region (sometimes down to a specific mountain) of oolong tea is crucial to understanding its quality. Most connoisseurs agree that the best Chinese examples come from Fujian and Guandong provinces (and specifically Wu Yi Shan, Anxi and the Phoenix mountains) where some prized oolong tea bushes are over 50 years old. But don’t ignore Taiwan’s glorious teas. The county is rapidly emerging as the Napa valley of oolongs producing some of the worlds most seductive teas with sweet, elegant and refreshing aromas. The most prized areas include the mountains of Li Shan and Shan Ling Xi. Tea farms in India, Sri Lanka and even New Zealand are experimenting with oolong production.